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2018 Aldo Viola "Krimiso” Terre Siciliane Bianco

por Rosenthal
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Like the “Egesta” below, “Krimiso” refers to both a river in western Sicily and to its corresponding river deity; Krimiso and Egesta were believed to guard wisdom in ancient Greek times, and Aldo employs their names both to honor the Hellenic settlers who brought the vine to Sicily and to acknowledge these two important local water sources which nourish the area’s vineyards. Made entirely from Catarratto, Krimiso is harvested and immediately placed whole-cluster into stainless steel, where it spends eight months macerating. Pump-overs are performed every so often, but it is never pressed; the wine is bottled directly from tank, and with no added sulfur. Krimiso leads with an enveloping nose of ripe orchard fruits and licorice, with decadent tropical fruit tugging at its fringes but remaining subdued. More structured than Biancoviola but not intrusively so, the extraordinarily fine tannins here speak to Aldo’s lack of manipulation during the long and gentle maceration. The fruit is fuzzy, not glossy, a soft analog rather than a crisp digital, with an underpinning of botanicals and earthy spice, and a prolonged decrescendo of a finish.
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