2006 Phillippe Viret “Maréotis” Vin de France

From a single parcel of white clay and limestone, “Maréotis”—named after a lake in northern Egypt near Alexandria—combines 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah which are harvested and vinified together during a lengthy 45-day maceration. This 2006 spent four full years in a combination of mainly concrete and a touch of old barrels with no added sulfur, and despite its 15.5% alcohol it still offers lift and freshness—a testament to the way a wine can articulate the natural headiness and heat of its terroir in an appealing way if it is crafted with a thoughtful and attentive lack of interference.