2020 Phillippe Viret “La Coudée d’Or” Vin de France

“La Coudée d’Or” is a combination of lesser-known white Rhône varieties such as Clairette, Bourboulenc, Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier, and various ancient obscurities (Viret has over 100 varieties planted on the property). Grapes begin fermentation on their skins and are pulled off after a few days and pressed, and the wine ages for two years in well-used oak barrels. Compared to the robustly tannic “Horus” above, “La Coudée d’Or” drinks like a more straightforward white wine, but with its luscious, pulpy, lip-smackingly salty fruit, and its intense vibrancy boosted by a hair’s breadth of appetizing volatility, it fully transcends the often underwhelming and clunky category of southern Rhône whites.