New Releases from Domaine Prudhon: The Rising Star of White Burgundy

It never ceases to amaze me how a 26 mile stretch of land can not only show such wealth but continue to contain so many great producers which seem to come out of nowhere. For today, we a favorite from the Neal Rosenthal portfolio. Domaine Pruhdon is highly interesting, well priced and insanely ageable; wines that should be household names. Well....they kind of are already, which is why some of them are so limited. I discovered the wines of Henri Prudhon about a decade ago and while it was great that they were so cheap, they seemed a little Meh. Over the years, the quality has increased and within recent vintages, I would put them in the same tier as some of the better known Saint Aubin producers.

All wines below are in short supply, with each under 1 hectare in production and some even less than 1/4.  They are unique, distinct and have serious ageing power. 

Quick Note about Scores: Readers of this newsletter will notice that I often tout the scores of Burghound's Allen Meadows, who is considered the world's greatest authority on Burgundy. One might notice that a lot of the wines I offer don't always have high scores from him in comparison to some others from Wine Advocate, Vinous, etc. Here's the thing: Burghound doesn't give great scores. A 90 for Burghound is considered exceptional, especially when it is something unknown like Saint Aubin. He just doesn't do it. Even some $500 bottles from grade A producers often get in the low 90s.  That's his schtick! 

Burghound on 2017 Prudhon: Vincent Prudhon succinctly described the 2017 growing season as "one where we largely avoided any climatic incidents. We did suffer a bit of frost damage in our parcels of Bourgogne and St. Aubin villages but otherwise, things were really pretty calm and clement. We chose to begin picking on the 4th of September and the fruit was essentially spotless and the only sorting necessary was because of some under ripe berries. It was also solidly ripe with good acidities so the vinifications and the malos passed without any difficulties. As to the style of the 2017s, they're classically styled with good freshness, transparency and are not so structured that they couldn't be enjoyed young and this is true for both reds and whites. As to quality, I would say that the whites are better though the difference isn't enormous." I would agree with Prudhon as I was more impressed with the quality of the whites than the reds.
 

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Burghound 87 Points: This isn't as spicy but it's a bit more complex aromatically with its array of freshly sliced apple, pear, lemon zest and soft floral nuances. There is both good volume and vibrancy to the utterly delicious middle weight flavors that possess a caressing mouth feel before concluding in a slightly more complex and sneaky long finale. This is really quite good for its level and worth considering.

Burghound 87 Points: Pungent aromas consist mostly of smoky white-fleshed fruit and wood nuances. Here too there is good volume to the more evidently mineral-inflected flavors that possess good mid-palate fat that buffers the mildly sweet if persistent finale. Note that this could easily be enjoyed shortly after release.: Pungent aromas consist mostly of smoky white-fleshed fruit and wood nuances. Here too there is good volume to the more evidently mineral-inflected flavors that possess good mid-palate fat that buffers the mildly sweet if persistent finale. Note that this could easily be enjoyed shortly after release.

Burghound 92 Points:  A beautifully well-layered and more expressive nose displays smoky and spicy aromas of ripe pear, white flowers, orange peel and an all but invisible hint of wood. There is excellent volume to the solidly concentrated and surprisingly powerful medium weight flavors that exude evident minerality on the very dry but not really austere finale. This balanced effort will require at least some patience as it's relatively tightly wound at present.

Burghound 91 Points:  An even cooler and more restrained nose grudgingly reveals its combination of essence of green apple, pear, grapefruit and soft spice nuances. The caressing and more concentrated medium-bodied flavors possess the same fine volume and mid-palate density as the best in the range, all wrapped in a lightly stony, bitter lemon and well-balanced finale. This is excellent and worth checking out.

Burghound 91 Points: There is a whiff of the exotic present on the mandarin orange, white peach and hint of lychee-suffused aromas. There is a bit more volume, particularly on the mid-palate, to the medium-bodied flavors that possess a highly seductive texture on the markedly more complex and persistent finish. Good stuff..

Burghound 91 Points: Once again there is a deft application of wood present on the citrusy green apple and acacia blossom aromas. The palate impression of the medium weight flavors is both racier and more refined while the intensely stony and saline-infused finish is clean, dry, focused and much more complex. This markedly dry but not really austere effort is really very good and worth checking out.

Burghound 92 Points:  It's easy to sense that this comes from a warmer terroir as there is a softly exotic character to the aromas of lychee, citrus, white peach, passion fruit and pretty spice nuances. The succulent and seductively textured middle weight flavors possess good acid support that renders the clean and agreeably dry finish quite refreshing. While this should age well over the mid-term, it should also drink reasonably well after only 2 to 3 years.

Burghound 91 Points: An overtly floral and markedly citrus-inflected nose exhibits additional notes of white peach and an interesting note of kiwi fruit. There is impressive richness to the solidly voluminous yet racy medium-bodied flavors that culminate in a refreshing finish thanks to the citrus-tinged acidity and quinine nuances. This minerally effort also is really quite good.

Burghound 88-91 Points: Moderate wood influence surrounds the essence of pear, apple and acacia blossom-suffused nose. The sappy, citrusy and vibrant middle weight flavors that are round and quite generously proportioned, contrast somewhat with the sappy if bone dry, indeed almost strict, finish. I suspect that this will unwind and flesh out on the finish with a few years of bottle age.

Burghound 91-93 Points: Here too moderate wood sets off elegant, cool and pure aromas of white flowers, gardenia, lemon rind and a whiff of green apple. There is very good richness to the admirably concentrated full-bodied flavors that brim with sappy dry extract that serves to buffer the moderately firm acid spine shaping the much more mineral-driven finish where a touch of citrus rind adds a touch of lift. This is sufficiently tightly wound to need at least a few years of patience and 10 would not be too many.

Burghound 91 Points: Pungent aromas are composed by notes of resin, petrol and various white orchard fruit scents. The sleek and utterly delicious medium weight flavors also possess both good body and a succulent palate impression before concluding in a lightly stony and sneaky long finish. This isn't especially complex at present but more depth should reasonably develop if this is allowed 5-ish years or so of cellaring.